Is it wrong to wear a vest?
The groom can do everything wrong with a suit
From STYLEBOOK | May 03, 2018, 1:22 p.m.
Does the groom have to wear the tailcoat in the early afternoon? Is a cummerbund necessary for a tuxedo? And which suit cuts are actually trendy? What men need to know who want to buy a wedding suit in the near future.
The wedding season is just around the corner and with it the question “What should I wear?” A big bohei is made around the bride and her dress. And the guests are often given a certain dress code by invitation. But what is the groom actually wearing? After all, I want to cut a perfect figure on this special day too. But is a simple, black suit enough?
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Here are the 5 most important style rules for the groom:
1. What types of suits are there and what makes them special?
There are different hierarchies of suits that should be chosen depending on the festivity:
► The Stresemann, named after the Weimar Republic politician Gustav Stresemann († 51), consists of black and gray striped trousers and a dark jacket with a lapel that widens towards the top. The man also wears a light gray vest, white shirt and dark tie. It used to be worn only during the day (until 5 p.m.).
► The Cutaway or Cut, also called Morning Coat in English-speaking circles, is similar to the Stresemann, but the jacket is cut longer. According to old tradition, the cut is to be worn until 6 p.m., after which it changes to a tuxedo.
► The Tuxedo, also known as tuxedo in America, is required at "black tie" events. The tuxedo has a jacket with a lapel made of silk satin or ribbed silk and trousers with a side stripe of silk satin. In addition, you wear a white shirt with a stand-up collar or wing collar, sometimes with pleats on the chest. And the cummerbund shouldn't be missing either. In the past, the tuxedo was only worn for evening events, but of course it is different for weddings.
► The Tailcoat is the finest that the groom can wear, ”says Petra Schreiber from the Federal Association of Color and Style Image. His jacket, cut to the waist and with knee-length dovetail tails, is striking.
2. What is currently trending?
“Most men choose a contemporary suit that they can wear later on,” observes Thomas Lenz, owner of a men's fashion store in Munich. The trend is towards shorter jackets and narrow cuts. There is also a trend in terms of color: “We have seen many shades of blue since last year, from petrol to a light steel blue,” reports Schreiber. If you want it classic, choose black. "But I would also make it dependent on the type of celebration and the season," recommends etiquette trainer Susanne Helbach-Grosser. "In summer, and especially at weddings outdoors, you should like some color."
3. What makes a contemporary suit a wedding suit?
A more eye-catching wedding vest gives the everyday outfit that certain something. The look can also be enhanced with a plastron - a wide tie. “A lot of men choose the variant,” explains Helbach-Grosser. If you like it more subtle, you can't go wrong with the narrower version either. “The only important thing is that it is tied straight and that it doesn't sit too loosely.” The bow tie is a chic alternative. The boutonnière, the pin-up bouquet and the pocket square should not be missing. "Double cuffs and a stiff stand-up collar, the so-called parricide, set elegant accents," adds Lenz.
Also interesting: the pocket square is back
4. Are there dress codes for the more extravagant suits?
If you want to strictly adhere to the wedding dress code, both the cutaway and the Stresemann are only worn during the day. Tailcoats and tuxedos are something for evenings. But: You don't have to change clothes for parties with a later start date. Both can be worn from around 4 p.m. However, the suit should match the bride's dress: "While the bride can wear a shorter dress with a tuxedo, it must be floor-length if the man wears tails," explains Schreiber. And the wedding party should also be appropriately festively dressed. A self-tied bow is required for the tuxedo, explains Lenz. “It also includes the cummerbund, an abdominal band.” This, like the bow, is usually black. Today both can be colored, but must be coordinated with each other. “It is important that the cummerbund folds upwards,” explains Helbach-Grosser. "So you can stow some change in it." Suspenders are put on for this.
5. How does the groom find the right suit?
The tip sounds banal, but it is the advice par excellence: which type of suit the groom ultimately decides on should depend not least on his figure. "For those who are more corpulent, a very narrowly cut slim-fit suit may be rather unfavorable," says Schreiber. Trouser legs that are cut wider hide wide thighs. “If you have a bit of a stomach, you can optically stretch your body with narrow legs.” The pockets of the jacket can also work optically little miracles: When placed correctly, they form a waist. “Those who are fuller should avoid flap pockets because they are bulky,” recommends the style consultant.
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